Mayan Ruins - Yucatan

Coba, Ek Balam, Chichen Itza

We stayed a couple of nights in the Colonial town of Valladolid (from the 1500’s) at a hotel called Hotel Maria de la Luz. This hotel seemed appropriately named for light poured into our room during the darkness of night – most grateful for my eye shades, thank you Suzanne! The earplugs helped too with a nearby dog barking the entire night long.

 

En route we went to some Mayan Ruins called Coba. We had lunch in front of a lake with both herons and crocodiles sunning on the side. This restaurant had the best fish filet grilled in garlic that I tasted all year. (I forgot the name of it – it is the only one facing the lake at the end of the road)!

 

Coba Archaeological Park is such a treat. We rented rickety bikes inside for $3.00 each to pedal to all of the monuments. A highlight was walking up a steep and perilous pyramid where we towered 42 meters above the jungle tree line. After this we returned and someone had hoisted my bike! The nerve. I reported it yet they couldn’t do anything so they suggested I take one of the other bikes parked there (so I did)…it is a big park.

 

When we first entered so many tour guides approached us. “NO!” we responded…this word seems to mean nothing. Since we knew at our ages we’d forget the information by the next day, why bother. We just bought a book – easier that way.

 

We climbed through many of the Mayan remains and realized how short these people must have been. Even I had to bend over to climb inside some of their archways. The structures were built 800 – 1145 AD…how amazing to experience this.

 

On our drive out we saw a crowd of tourists hovering near the lake and pulled over. A young child would fling a rope with a piece of chicken on the end toward the crocodiles in the water for tips. And people actually gave them the tips. And the parents encouraged them to tease the crocs too. They’d even stand in the murky waters, toss it over to the croc so he’d open his jaws and the tourists could take a better photo. Once a baby croc charged the crowd – and luckily, the child with the fish hook got out of the way in time too. We both felt surprised and also sad that tourists and parents alike would encourage this behavior for the lure of better photos and money for the family….

 

We then drove to Valladolid where we walked through the center square with great statues and a fountain along with a Cathedral from the 1700’s across the way. (We later toured a nearby Cathedral here from the 1500’s in pink and red stucco – amazing).

 

 Every evening there is a cacophony of a sound off from a hoard of birds that is truly amazing to witness. We made some purchases, liquor made of honey and anise (ancient Mayan blend that the seller referred to as “Mexican Viagra”…hmmm…and also a ceramic statue (a Mayan replica).

 

The most interesting aspect of this area was the dress of the women. Most women (particularly the mid-life to senior range) wore the same dress – the uniform of Valladolid. It is a white cotton dress with embroidered flowers around the neckline and the hem with usually a ½ foot of lacework near the hem. The children then all walked by in Catholic school uniforms and we wondered, “Where is the self-expression?”

 

 

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We drove to more Mayan ruins close to Valladolid, Ek Balam. There were few tourists here and it is so compact even though it contains more than 50 structures. We climbed another large pyramid and took in the Tomb of the Kings unearthed as recent as 1999. What a sheer marvel of immaculate detailed carvings with some heads missing, otherwise in tact. The Mayans covered all of their ruins with mud when they left thinking they would return which preserved them so well.  They also built new structures on top of old structures.

 

Ek Balam is Mayan for ‘Black Jaguar.’ This city existed for about 1000 years which is astounding for the period of its inception. Construction began 100 BC to 300 AD and continued to 700 to 900 AD.

 

I loved the freedom of looking out over the jungle as far as my eye could see from the high vantage point of its large pyramid measuring 146 meters across, 55 meters in width and 29 meters in heigth! One step after another and it is accomplished (just like life). The trip down was not as easy. Whoa! Watch out below.

 

Our quads ached so much afterward – this getting old stuff isn’t all that fun. Or could it be because we climbed literally every pyramid there including inside the remains of sacrificial areas, dwellings, and palaces?

 

Just as we completed our self-guided tour; we noticed the first tour busses pulling up and the crowds assembling. Perfect timing to leave. Yet what a treat – we highly recommend taking the time to drive out to the Mayan Ruins throughout the Yucatan.

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We next stayed at a Club Med (a Mexican village style of one that is) only a 10 minute walk to the Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza. When we first arrived we did not have our check in information printed out (and the hotel did not have internet) so we had to drive into town to have this done before we could return and check in (all these minor details)!

It was all worth it as we stayed in a lovely bungalow – such a colorful place with a straw-thatched outdoor dining area next to the pool. Whenever we dined we would have to track down a server which took awhile (as we were here in a slower season).

We then walked over to Chichen Itza with remains from the range of 900-1500 AD amidst vendors in every corner and along each path, hawking, begging, and even pleading. We learned a new gimmick. The vendors come up to you and say, “It is only one dollar.” The catch you learn later is it is one Mayan Dollar (which is about 20 or 30 dollars in U.S. monies)! They also yelled repeatedly, “Almost Free. Come buy from me.” Ok – enough already!

We’re here to see the ruins not shop. (Though we did buy a great mask and t-shirts….)

The ruins were remarkable – so well intact, strong, sculpted and in perfect dimensions. The Mayans had been such an advanced culture, they even built an observatory. 50,000 Mayans formerly lived here – quite the community. We were bummed though that no one is allowed to climb the pyramid anymore. Though our legs probably appreciated the break.

It felt so inspiring to grace the same grounds as these ancient people with lifestyles we couldn’t fathom. Sacrificial rituals dominated the villagers’ lives. Legend has it that to make favor with the Rain God so the crops would flourish – or as a gift to enjoy a more peaceful after-life; they would sacrifice either one of their children or an adult would volunteer.

Soccer and basketball games were allegedly brutal. They played to the death and the loser would be decapitated and head placed on a shrine of heads and hearts placed on a special alter. Talk about sore losers….

We stayed until closing time as the guards blew whistles and rounded us about. In about 5 hours we had taken it all in—though we could have used a couple of more hours. At this time of year the crowds weren’t so bad (early November). We returned to our hotel to have a drink at the bar whilst on the way some magnificent peacocks strode by us. How graceful.

We then returned to the Mayan Park for the laser show (all in Spanish though). The brilliant colors dazzled the Mayan relics……though we didn’t quite understand the back up dialogue (I did get some of it)….

The next day we drove back to the Playa del Carmen area for our final night along the Caribbean Sea. On the way we stopped to see the Twin Cenotes caverns…what a sight. Cenotes are water-filled limestone sinkholes which only exist in the Yucatan area. Outside light shone through the hole at the top, bats encircled, mounds of stalagtites and stalagmites stood out while small black fish swam through a pool of still water. It is possible to swim in the waters though we chose to photograph it instead. I placed my hand in the water and it sure didn’t feel like the warmth of the Caribbean…more like the Pacific Ocean near our home in San Diego – too icy for me.

We left early because we had a hankering to have lunch over at Oscar and Laila’s, a famous spot where one can dine and then hang out in hammocks and snorkel along a private beach. Hours later we pulled down a very “holey” road and there was nothing at the end of it. We drove back (so slowly) and across the street (not near the ocean) was Oscar and Laila’s. We found out that the hurricane had taken the establishment along with her sad to say. So the legend of snorkeling and hammocking with your lunch is no more. We still enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch (next to the freeway) and chatted with the owner (an American who has a home in Los Angeles). She invited us to their grand opening on Sunday (the day we were bussing down to Chetamal, Mexico – darn)!


We spent our final night in Playa del Carmen. Quite the hip, trendy spot for anyone who must be seen in the scene. This isn’t quite our style though our bed and breakfast oozed with charm and ‘hipness.’ The crowds meandering at night resemble
New Orleans during the Mardi Gras so we decided we won’t return to this section of the Yucatan on any return trips.

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